Got on a bus at 5am. Changed buses at 4pm. Got off a bus at 7pm. Really, it was not all so grim: they were all local buses, sure, which means they're tiny and packed, but the conductor put tall confused me in the front seat ("You sit here. Legs.") so I could stretch out a bit until it got super-packed. The road was mostly flat. A nice Belgian girl named Laura joined the bus at one point. And I listened to the newish album from Big Boi (of Outkast), which is really good. (on my phone, I mean. I needed a break from blaring Bollywood.)
The scenery was surprisingly sleepy. Straight, foggy, and nondescript for hours. It was like something from a movie: our hero drives on through a fog until the fog lifts and he's in bizarro world. (actually, I was thinking, and trying not to think, Silent Hill.) It wasn't unpleasant, but it wasn't really pleasant either.
Made it to the small "romantic medieval town" (thanks, Lonely Planet) of Tansen. Only 4 hours from Pokhara now, but I think I'll stay here for a day. It looks nice.